Ecuador Travel

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Overview

Created in 1979, the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve is a 600,000-hectare area of protected land where an extraordinarily diverse set of creatures make their home. For many years, organizers failed to protect the reserve from infringing oil barons who ended up destroying much of the area throughout that 1980s. In fact, no less than six different oil spills were recorded in the area during the decade. At the onset of the 90s, however, local indigenous peoples and global environmental protection agencies began to fight back, and were able to raise protection standards, and even extend the park’s borders. Today’s park lies within the Sucumbios province on the Ecuadorian border with Colombia. The majority of the park is covered by lush wetlands and river valleys.

Visitors to the region will be stunned by the remoteness of it. The jungle appears as a thick, dense mass of green laced and interwoven by powerful rivers and trickling streams. Life is all around you at the Cuyabeno reserve, as you’ll notice that it’s never quiet here. You can always hear something buzzing, chirping, howling or hooting. Green is without a doubt the dominant color, but the longer you spend at the park, the more you will begin to notice the brilliant flashes of color produced by the many exotic flowers, birds and insects.

Visitors to the area should also be prepared to get wet, and not just from the torrential rains and overflowing rivers. The humidity level is typically between 90 and 100%, making for some very sticky conditions. Be sure to pack breathable clothing and plastic casing for any electronics or valuable goods.

The Cuyabeno reserve is particularly known for its wildlife. Creatures like tapirs, ocelots, bats, jaguars, pumas, capybaras, anacondas, anteaters peccaries, poison dart frogs, agoutis, iguanas and fifteen different species of monkey can be found roaming the extensive lands of the reserve. Swimming through the waters are turtles, pink freshwater dolphins, giant otters, manatees, five species of caiman and nearly five hundred different species of fish—including the famous piranha. And don’t forget about the over five hundred different bird species that make the reserve one of the best places on the planet for bird watching. Keep your eyes peeled for colorful Woodpeckers, Hummingbirds, Tanagers, Macaws and Toucans.

How to get around in the Cuyabeno reserve

How does one get out to see all this wildlife? Don’t expect to find it on your own. In fact, entering the reserve without the assistance of a guide or local expert is highly discouraged. The best option is to arrange a stay at one of the many eco-lodges located in and around the park. Eco-lodges are ideal because they almost always offer packaged deals that include lodging, meals, tours, guides, equipment and transportation. What’s more, many make a concerted effort to minimize their footprint and conserve resources, offering pleasant accommodations and exciting tours without harming the local environment.

Typical lodge tours consist of motorized canoe trips to and through wildlife hotspots and local communities. Guides will point out and identify notable flora and fauna, while visitors are free to look wander around and take pictures. Most tours will also provide visitors with opportunities to swim in some of the region’s many lakes, rivers and waterfalls. Hiking, fishing, kayaking and camping tours can also be arranged.

Community based tours come especially recommended for three major reasons: The native guides were born and raised in the forest and know the region better than anyone else; your presence at such lodges will greatly benefit the local communities who depend on the support of tourists to maintain and protect their lands and cultures; and there’s simply no reason not to take advantage of the incredible opportunity to experience local rainforest culture firsthand. Groups native to the area include the Shuar, Achuar, Siona, Cofan, Secoya and Kichwa peoples. Community tours and lodges offer many of the same activities and excursions as general eco-lodges, while also presenting visitors with a look into local traditions and customs. Learn how the native people hunt with blowguns and bows and arrows, or get yourself adorned in traditional dress. Many communities will even offer homestays, where you can spend the night in a family’s jungle hut after a dinner of typical, freshly harvested food.

Visitors interested in community tourism should certainly visit the Zabalo community of the Cofan indigenous peoples, where eco-tourists can learn to observe and explore the forest through the eyes of a native who was born and raised in the area. Opening their villages to tourists since 1978, the Cofan know what they are doing, and are certain to provide an unforgettable and unique jungle experience. All package prices include meals, lodging, activities, guides and transportation from Lago Agrio.

How to get to the Cuyabeno Amazon reserve

While the vast majority of tour agencies and lodges are based in Quito, most will have branches set up in Lago Agrio, the main gateway into the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve. Some places—typically the more upscale ones—will allow tourists to make reservations in advance online. Others will require an in person visit to the appropriate tour agency or lodge office in Quito or Lago Agrio. Although you may be able to find packages that include transportation from Quito, don’t count on it. It is recommended that you make independent arrangements to get yourself to Lago Agrio, from which transportation can and will be provided. The easiest way to get to Lago Agrio is to fly. Flights leave daily and should be booked well in advance, as these flights tend to fill with oil industry professionals. Those on a budget can opt to take a bus. Trips out of Quito last 8 hours and cost around $8.

Another option, recommended for passing backpackers or travelers on a shoestring budget, is to base yourself at one of the many hotels or hostels in Lago Agrio, and take day trips into the reserve with smaller local guides and tour agencies.