Ecuador Travel

Purisima de Macas church

Overview

The jungle city of Macas, the capital of the Morona Santiago Province, was first established as a missionary outpost, not long after the early Spanish conquest at the end of the 16th century, and today serves as an excellent starting point for visitors interested in exploring the surrounding forests and local indigenous communities. Still known to many as Sevilla de Oros (Golden Seville), Macas was once a city of great wealth surrounded by lucrative goldmines. But with money, of course, comes greed, and the city was consequently faced with violent attacks by violent gold rushers. The nearby mines were eventually abandoned and Macas, in turn, went back to being a quiet, sleepy city. Today, the vibe at this riverside city continues to be relaxed and low key.

For a dramatic bird’s eye view of Macas, head up to El Quilamo Lookout, a popular hiking destination and starting point at the peak of El Quilamo. At an altitude of 1,404 meters, visitors can take in views of not just the city, but also the entire river valley below. Enthusiastic hikers can choose to continue on one of the many longer trails that start at the lookout. There are also bikes available for rent.

A not-to-be-missed site while in Macas is the Virgen Purísima de Macas Cathedral. Although the church itself isn’t all that old (its construction was completed in 1992), its legacy dates back to the late 1500s. The original church of Macas was a tiny structure built into the surrounding hills. Inside of the church was a painting of the Virgen Purísima de Macas (the pure virgin of Macas), a painting that is said to have miraculously changed in 1592. The church was rebuilt in 1992 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of this event. Visitors can learn the history of the painting, and the church, by observing the stories depicted in the stain glass windows of the modern structure. Each year, Macas residents pay homage to their virgin with the Virgin of Macas Festival, which takes place on August 4th and February 18th.

Flanked by Shuar and Achuar territories, Macas is an ideal destination for travelers looking to learn more about the local cultures of Ecuadorian Amazonia. The first stop on the cultural tour of the area is the Museo Arqueológico Municipal, a tiny museum housing local artifacts like traditional clothing, weapons and small handcrafts. The best part of all is that entry is absolutely free. Another noteworthy destination is the Tienda Fundacion Chankuap, a shop that sells handmade crafts and organic food products from local Achuar and Shuar communities. Almost everything sold in the shop is made entirely out of local plants and herbs. Items for sale include bags, spices, coffees, jams, jewelry, cosmetics and other handmade artifacts.

Visits to the museum and shop, however, will certainly not compare with a visit to one of the surrounding Shuar or Achuar communities. Locals do not allow unguided visitors to their communities, but that shouldn’t be a problem, as tours and guides are easy to arrange in Macas or Quito. A typical community tour affords visitors with an insider’s look at local life, with artisan demonstrations and opportunities to try local gastronomic delicacies. Other tours out of Macas that aren’t necessarily community based, will lead travelers into the surrounding jungles for the chance to spot wildlife, observe some of the beautiful flora, explore rivers in canoes, swim in waterfalls, or hike through stunning, lush forest trails.

Some tours may also offer opportunities for fishing or white water rafting. One of the most popular tours leads to the Las Cuevas de los Tayos (the Caves of the Oilbird), an extensive series of caves filled with awesome stalagmites and stalactites. Be aware that certain areas of the cave will require more technical equipment. You also probably won’t like this if you are afraid of heights or small spaces.

In the chance that you embark on a tour to see wildlife and come up short, you’re in luck. There is a place where you’re guaranteed to see local creatures just four kilometers outside of town. The five hectare Huerto Eden Wildlife Rescue Center takes in creatures that have been abandoned by parents or given up by irresponsible pet owners. Animals living at the center may include monkeys, tapirs, turtles, boas, capybaras, ocelots, pumas, parrots and toucans. That said you never really know who’s going to be living there, as animals are frequently taken in or re-released.

Most visitors come to Macas in order to access the nearby Sangay National Park, named for the 5,250 meter snowcapped volcano that sits within its confines. The volcano is by far one of the most active in Ecuador, and you can even sometimes see bits rock and ash spewing and bubbling from its crater. While climbing Sangay isn’t, relatively speaking, that difficult, because the volcano is so active, trekking to its crater is quite dangerous and is not recommended. In contrast, it is generally safe to explore the base of the mountain. The Tungarahua and El Altar volcanoes are also located within the park.

But Sangay National Park offers much more than just its volcano. In 1983, the area became a World Heritage Site, and has since been fairly well protected. Extending over both mountains and lowlands, the park gives visitors a chance to experience both worlds, with cloud forests thrown in between.