Ecuador Travel

Tourists in Misahualli

The sleepy port village of Misahuallí on the Napo River consists of a handful of family owned shops, eateries and hostels that surround a shady tree lined plaza. The village affords calming views out over the rushing Napo River, and there are always a few peke peke river canoes docked and waiting at the water’s edge. Nearly everyone who lives and works in the center of Misahuallí is there to cater to the constant influx of tourists. Guides hand out cards and informational flyers, mothers cook up traditional fare and shop owners carry a list of items you may have forgotten, like rolls of toilet paper, extra batteries and individually wrapped snacks. You may also notice men walking around with humongous snakes draped across their shoulders. Pay a dollar for the chance to take a photo with one of these monsters (the snakes, not the owners).

But the real stars of Misahuallí are the troupes of pesky capuchin monkeys who rule the streets and have a grand old time terrorizing tourists and local shopkeepers. You can never be too sure where they’ll be, but the monkeys generally like to hang out in the trees in and around the main plaza. Look closely in the branches, because there’s a pretty good chance that there will be a monkey hiding within them. And one thing is for certain: these monkeys are not shy. Hold on to your cameras, and any food or drink you may have with you, as the Capuchin of Misahuallí have been known to swoop down from the tree tops and steal anything that takes their fancy, even if they have to steal something right out of your hands. Some of them may even climb on your head, and they can and do bite, so do be careful. Keep your distance and you should be fine.

When you’ve tired of playing with the monkeys, there really isn’t a lot to do in Misahuallí, as most visitors come to experience the sights and attractions in the forests surrounding the small port. While some of the more popular sights can be visited independently, they are most easily accessed with a guided tour. Private guides or larger tour groups can be arranged in Quito, Tena or Misahuallí itself, though you’re better off setting up something in advance with an agency in Quito or Tena, especially if you’re looking to take a longer trip, and not just a day excursion. Local, independent guides are an excellent option for those interested in shorter day trips and visits to popular locations that can only be accessed via canoe. Many hostels and hotels will have contracted guides, so be sure to ask about this when you check in.

For longer excursions, and a bit more convenience, definitely look into staying at one of the many jungle lodges set up along the road from Tena to Misahuallí. Believe it or not, this area of the jungle has more eco-lodges than anywhere else in all of Ecuador, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding a lodge that will meet your expectations. Nearly all of the lodges are eco-friendly, so don’t expect air-conditioning and bottled water, but you will find a number of rather luxurious lodges with comfy beds, private cabins, on-site restaurants, 24-hour hot water, 24-hour electricity and recreation centers. Of course, other lodges will be more rustic, and for those who really want to rough it, many also have camping sites. Nearly all lodges will offer packaged deals with tours, guides, equipment, lodging, meals and transportation included in the price.

What you do on your jungle tour will depend on where you stay, but most sites will have daily itineraries listed on their websites to give you a sense of what can be offered. Typically offered activities include motor canoeing down the Napo, bird watching, visiting local communities, observing artisan demonstrations and traditional rituals, hiking, swimming, fishing, tubing, rafting, kayaking, gold panning, night-hiking and touring local medicinal gardens.

If you want to see wildlife (besides the monkeys of Misahuallí) you won’t likely see it in the wild, as human development has driven most creatures away. You can, however, visit the AmaZOOnico animal rehabilitation center in the Selva Viva Reserve. Most of the animals here come from owners who originally acquired the creatures through illegal animal trading. Due to the fact that many owners find that it is too difficult to keep a wild animal as a pet, many of these creatures are abandoned, unable to survive in the wild on their own. The people at AmaZOOnico rescue these animals and prepare and train them for an independent life. They also take care of wild animals that have been injured or abandoned in the areas surrounding the center. Creatures housed at the site include, turtles, tapirs, monkeys, various snakes, capybaras, agoutis, macaws and toucans.

You can also catch a glimpse of wildlife at the Centro de Reproduccion Butterfly Farm, located just fifteen minutes outside Misahuallí. Here you can learn about the transformative process from caterpillar to butterfly, while observing the many vibrant butterfly species native to the jungles of Ecuador, including the beautiful, bright blue Morpho butterfly.

Finally, no visit to the Misahuallí area is complete without a trip to the stunning Las Latas Waterfall, located fifteen minutes down the road to Tena. A trail leading up from the road passes through dense jungle, lovely swimming spots and a number of pleasant picnic areas. At the end of the trail is the main waterfall and a series of pools where visitors can cool off and swim. The hike to the falls is a very muddy one, so make sure you’re wearing rubber boots or appropriate footwear. The journey takes about an hour.

Direct buses out of Quito leave daily at 11:30 a.m. from the Quitumbe terminal just South of the city. The trip lasts about seven hours and costs $7. Return trips out of Misahuallí leave at 8:30 a.m. If such times don’t work with your schedule, look to bus into Tena—buses leave Quito roughly every hour—and then transfer from there. The trip from Quito to Tena lasts 5-6 hours. From there, it’s a forty-five minute to one-hour bus trip to Misahuallí. That said, most visitors to Misahuallí only stay for an hour or so on pre-arranged jungle excursions and tours.