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Yasuni National Park
If you really want to get a taste of pristine, untouched wilderness, look no further than Yasuní National Park, located in the northeast corner of Ecuador in the provinces of Pastaza and Orellana, along the border with Peru. The reserve, covering roughly 2.5 million acres of wetlands, swamps, marshes, lakes, rivers and dry land forests, was declared an UNESCO International Biosphere in 1979 (the park was established soon thereafter) and is considered to be one of the most bio-diverse regions in the entire world. Needless to say, the park is the biggest, and best protected area in all of Ecuador. Some even call Yasuní National Park the last true wilderness of the country.
Due to fervent conservations efforts, the park has been able to protect and sustain a vast abundance of life. Close to 600 different types of birds can be found within the parks parameters, which represents a third of all known Amazonic bird species. Add that total to 170 mammals, 560 fish species, close to 300 different reptile and amphibian creatures and thousands upon thousands of different plant varieties, and you’ll get a sense of just how bio-diverse Yasuní National Park really is. In just 2.5 acres of the park, visitors will find as many tree species as in the U.S. and Canada combined.
Compared with other parks and reserves in the jungles of Ecuador, Yasuní National Park wins the prize for environmental conservation and protection. That said, as it has in most other regions, the presence of oil here has in recent years attracted the eyes of major oil companies and corporations. In 1991, Ecuador even allowed the U.S. Conoco Company to enter the area. The explorers built a 90-mile road through the park that is today known as the Via Maxus (Maxus road), named for the Maxus Energy Corporation. Although the road is technically removable, its construction required the removal of thousands of trees, and its presence has driven away much of the wildlife that once called the areas surrounding the road home.
Yasuní National Park is considered to be one of the most bio-diverse regions in the entire world...
The problem is that Yasuní National Park sits atop the largest oil reserves in all of Ecuador. This area, known as Ishpingo-Tambococha-Tiputini (ITT), is believed to contain close to 900 million barrels of crude oil, the extraction of which would be extremely damaging to local ecosystems. In 2007, President Correa proposed a plan for the area, and vowed that Ecuador would not allow for oil extraction, provided that the country could be compensated for the profits and revenues it would receive in the event that the ITT oil fields were indeed tapped into.
Various environmental groups and agencies have already supported this policy. The ITT reserve’s potential for CO2 emissions is close to 430 million tons, which translates to about four billion dollars worth of mitigation costs. Thus, the hope is that international companies will offer to help Ecuador with its hefty debts, and in return receive carbon credits; corporations that choose to contribute can then obtain CO2 reduction credits while also helping to protect this precious landscape. In fact in August 2010 the government and UNESCO signed a Trust in order to receive the income of donations from countries, companies and people who want to support this unique strategy to keep this miracle of nature untouched.
The Huaorani culture
But it’s not just the plant and animal life that needs protecting. Indigenous that have dwelled in the park’s regions for centuries on end are also in danger of disappearing. To the South and West of the park lies the Huaorani Reserve (est. 1991), where various communities of the native Huaorani peoples make their home. While the Huaorani of earlier days were typically nomadic, the Huaorani people of today generally live sedentary lifestyles and many communities have opened the door to modern life, allowing for community based eco-tourism projects. Two such open communities are those of Noneno and Bameno, where guided visitors can learn more about the native traditions, beliefs and rituals. Some natives may even be willing to open up their homes to overnight visitors, and many will be eager to share their traditional cuisine with you.
Visitors should be aware, however, that there are a number of tribes living within the boundaries of the Yasuní National Park that have chosen to isolate themselves from the modern world. The Tagaeri Taromenani natives, a specific clan of Huaorani people, are one of a handful of groups that prefer to live in isolation. Please respect these wishes and make no attempt to contact these people. Most of these communities have proven to be highly resistant to outsiders and are known to do whatever is necessary to preserve and protect their privacy, even if it means resorting to violence. Before embarking on a community tour, make sure that you will be welcome in the villages you intend to visit, and never try to enter an area that is known to be closed to visitors.
Francisco de Orellana and the path to discover the Amazon
Believe it or not, when you travel to Yasuní you will follow the same route that Francisco de Orellana took to discover the Amazon river.
In fact, Orellana left Guayaquil in 1541, because the native told about the legend of the Gold City, where everything was made of gold and he wanted to find it. But this was just a smart way for the natives to play with the conquers’ will. First, Orellana went to Quito, which is now Ecuador’s capital, then he went down by the Antisana volcano on his way to the Amazon. He walked almost a year, fought and lost a good amount of his troops and guides, all this without even getting to the famous Gold City. During his travel he arrived at the town that is now known as Puerto Francisco de Orellana (El Coca) capital of the Orellana province in Ecuador, at this point he boarded a boat built by his people and went down the Napo river to Yasuní National Park. He arrived at the Amazon river in 1524.
This path takes approximately 21 days and it involves crossing the Orellana province in Ecuador, and also crossing the boundaries with Peru to Iquitos, where the Amazon river can be found. Ask about this trail in Quito and Puerto Francisco de Orellana. You should know that the cost for this trips may start at $800 from Puerto Francisco de Orellana. This is the adventure of a lifetime, Not many people can say that they took the same path that Orellana took to discover the Amazon river. Remember that the tour may require weeks of preparation to guarantee the success of your trip.
How to get into Yasuni National Park
Because it contains so much precious life, it is generally more difficult to gain access into Yasuní National Park than it is with the many other parks and reserves of Ecuador. At the end of the day, the most beautiful and bio-diverse areas of the world, are generally the best protected, and therefore, the most inaccessible. Basically, the more human development, the less wildlife. Even so, in recent years it has gotten much easier to gain entry into the park. The best way to visit is through one of the many eco-lodges in and around the park. Such lodges generally combine costs into packaged deals that include lodging, transportation, meals, guides, equipment and excursions. To really support to conservation effort, look for a lodge owned and run by local indigenous groups and communities. The Napo Wildlife center, run by the Anangu Kichwa community, is an excellent option. The Anangu community members have even been declared as honorific park rangers by the National Park service.
Science nerds and ecological researchers should certainly try to visit the Tipituni Biodiversity Station, a project that is co-run by the Universidad San Francisco de Quito and Boston University. The 650-hectare station has camps, walking trails and two 120-ft observation towers. The station aims to conduct research, educate the public and help to conserve Yasuní’s wildlife, forests and wetlands.
Regardless of how you plan to enter the Park, be sure to look for an option that is environmental sustainable and eco-friendly. The people of Ecuador want Yasuní National Park to maintain its beauty for future generations, so if you do make a visit, take only pictures and leave only footprints—and not the carbon kind.
The best way to reach the park is using a tour operator and a lodge inside the park, to make the whole process easier. The main access is by plane or boat from Coca in Pastaza province, but always ensure you have a tour reservation and the right permits from the tribes inside the park.
