Ecuador Travel

Altillo lakes

Overview

Off the Guamote-Macas road about 90 km (56 mi) from the city of Riobamba, the beautiful Atillo lakes (Lagunas de Atillo) are situated within Sangay National Park. The park is located in the páramo, or upper Andean moorlands, of the Cebadas area of the Guamote region of Ecuador, and it is a site of extreme natural beauty and ecological and biological diversity. In fact, around 3000 species of plants, trees and shrubs have been identified within the park. Sangay National Park has become more accessible over time with more transportation options and new roads, but it still remains a less-frequented, remote area of Ecuador. This is part of its general appeal to those who visit it; you can literally get lost in its sights, smells and sounds without much distraction. This massive piece of protected land encompasses both Volcán Sangay and Volcán Tungurahua, which are both extremely active volcanoes. The volcanoes can be viewed with luck, as thick cloud cover often masks their peaks.

What to Do at Atillo Lakes

Consisting of four isolated alpine lakes, the photogenic views of Lagunas de Atillo can be enjoyed from afar, but it is also possible to enjoy boat rides on the lakes, sport fish in the lakes or experience some rugged camping in the areas surrounding the lagoons. Trekking in and around Sangay National Park, mountain biking on the Guamote-Macas road through the park and toward the Amazon, and horseback riding in the surroundings are all popular ways to explore the Atillo lakes. There are many organized tours from Riobamba, like with Pro Bici, that incorporate these activities into their itineraries. Some of these tours are intense multi-day mountain biking adventures, where cyclers bike seven to eight hours per day, passing through indigenous villages along the way.

The Lagunas de Atillo also have some historical background that is rooted in pre-Inca suspicions about the lakes. González Suárez, a well-known 19th centry Ecuadorian historian, recorded that pre-Inca inhabitants brought criminals to an islet of the Atillo lakes so that they would starve and freeze to death there. The lakes were viewed as both mystifying and unlucky by these people. This islet is still one of the defining features of the lagoons and is surrounded by dense Andean cloud forest.

The two small villages of Atillo Grande and Atillo Chico make up a combined population of 300 and are located only 1 km (0.6 mi) apart from one another. Collectively known as Atillo, the villages are about 79 km from Riobamba. If you are looking to stay in the Atillo lakes area, your best bet is probably reserving a $5 bed at Paradero Los Saskines in Atillo Chico, which has basic dorms, or a $8 bed at Cabaña Atillo Grande in Atillo Grande. Besides the possibility of camping, another option is to rent a small, $1 per night hut in the village of Tortoras, which can be reached by a nine to twelve hour hike from Lagunas de Atillo via the Lagunas de Ozogoche. All camping gear and maps should be picked up in Riobamba before heading to Sangay National Park.

Many excellent hiking opportunities can be experienced in the lakes area of Sangay National Park. A popular six to eight hour route exists between Lagunas de Atillo and Lagunas de Ozogoche. For an additional three to four hiking hours, you can reach Tortoras and can spend the night there. For those more experienced hikers who are looking for a multi-day trek, one recommended hike is from Atillo to Achupallas, a 45 km (28 mi) route through the high páramo ranging in altitude from 3,320-4,300 m (10,892- 14,107 ft) above sea level. The three to five day hike affords spectacular scenic views of the Atillo lakes, surrounding mountains and indigenous communities.

How to get there

To get to Atillo, you can take a Cooperativa Unidas bus from Riobamba, which leaves at 5:30 a.m., noon and 3:20 p.m. every day but Sunday when it only leaves at 2:30 p.m. A ticket costs $2 and the trip takes approximately two and a half hours. Also, all buses heading toward Macas from Riobamba's Terminal Oriental will pass Atillo, so you can ask to be dropped off there if it does not officially stop there. Another option is to go with an organized tour from Riobamba. From Guamote, you can also hire a pick-up truck to take you to Atillo for about $35 one-way.