Ecuador Travel

Pailón del Diablo waterfall in Tungurahua

Overview

A small town in the central highlands of Ecuador, Baños de Agua Santa is nestled into a valley on the Pastaza River, 8km from the crater of the active Volcán Tungurahua, which means “throat of fire” in the indigenous language, Quichua. The lush and unique topography full of dense vegetation, deep river gorges, and dramatic waterfalls accentuated by the 5,016 meter-high volcano attracts both nature and adventure lovers. Baños de Agua Santa is known as the gateway to the Amazon not only because of its proximity to the Amazon Basin but also because its developed infrastructure makes it easy for travelers to get there numerous ways via bike, go-cart, or bus.

Highlights

La Ruta de las Casacadas- One of the highlights of visiting Baños de Agua Santa is taking the dramatic highway of waterfalls (La Ruta de las Cascadas) to the jungle town of Puyo, a 61km route that descends a total of 850 meters through various climatic zones from cloud forest to jungle. The scenic route hugs the Río Pastaza canyon following the twists and turns of the river, and offers spectacular views of the 19 waterfalls before the thrilling descent into the town of Puyo.

Bike Riding and Go-Carts- In Baños de Agua Santa, it is easy to rent mountain bikes or go-carts for the excursion. Riders can take a full day trip to Puyo, where they can hop a bus back with their bikes at any point along the route, and go-cart drivers can travel the road for a half-day without the exertion. At the bus terminal, passengers can also catch buses heading to Puyo for a less strenuous but still spectacular trip.

Bike riders and go-cart drivers should take care along the road and stick to the right side of the lane as cars and buses pass often. There are many long, dark tunnels that enclose the road completely so for the safety of tourists the municipality has created bypasses with great views that branch off to the right before each tunnel.

Pailon del Diablo (the Devil’s Cauldron)- A large waterfall less than a third of the way to Puyo and makes an excellent half-day trip for bikers and go-cart drivers. This is the point where the Río Verde hurdles through a gorge and joins the Río Pastaza, creating a spectacular mist and thunderous noise. The waterfall is by far the most spectacular along the route. Pailon del Diablo is almost 1km off the main road, about 17km from Baños de Agua Santa, and getting there is half the fun.

Manto de la Novia Waterfalls- The route to the Pailon del Diablo is mostly downhill and passes by the Agoyán hydroelectric project and Manto de la Novia waterfalls where travelers can take an engine-powered tarabita (cable car) 500m across the river gorge up to the dizzying height of 100m for around $3. Visitors should park their vehicles at Restaurante las Hortensias, just after a small bridge, and from there, head downhill on a small path winding through cloud forest for less than 1 km until they reach a suspended bridge. The bridge provides a great view of the waterfall. For another $1, you can pass through El Otro Lado restaurant and continue on the private path until you are almost close enough to touch the waterfall. The walk has excellent bird watching and a variety of butterflies and orchids along the way.

Machay- For those who continue on the route to Puyo, after 30 minutes or so of uphill riding you will reach Machay, a nice picnic or swimming spot where a 2.5km trail leads through cloud forest and past eight waterfalls. After Machay, there are two large hills you must tackle before a nice long downhill stretch to Río Negro, about 15km from Pailon del Diablo. The vegetation becomes more tropical here with orchids, giant tree ferns, and bromeliads covering the canyon walls. Río Negro has some great restaurants and even a hotel for riders beginning to feel a little famished.

Merazonia Foundation - Just outside the town of Mera, 17 km past Río Negro, there is a refuge for injured rain forest animals called the Merazonia Foundation that offers volunteer opportunities working with the animals. Mera and a few of the following towns have been known to have police checkpoints. They usually don’t take long, but riders should make sure they bring their passport. You will pass the air-transport hub Shell before reaching the jungle town of Puyo. From Puyo, it is easy to hop a bus back to Baños de Agua Santa in time for dinner at one of the excellent restaurants.

Naturally Heated Pools- After a long day of hiking or bike riding, there are few better places to relax than Baños de Agua Santa. The town is full of outdoor pools naturally heated by the volcano and a dip in one of them is a highlight for any traveler in Ecuador. The water is naturally infused with a high mineral content and is widely believed to have medicinal healing properties. The most popular baths are right in town making them perfect for returning day trippers. Piscinas de La Virgen are on Calle Montalvo, cost only a few dollars and are open from 4:30am-5:00pm and 6:00pm to 10:00pm.

Spas- Another option is to book a massage or spa treatment at one of the excellent and affordable spas around town for the following day. A relaxing hour-long hot stone reflexology massage can be found for under $30 at Chakra located on Alfaro & Martinez.

Getting There

Baños de Agua Santa is three and a half hours by bus from Quito and Transportes Baños buses leave Quito’s Terminal Quitumbe every thirty minutes and drop passengers off on the Ambato-Puyo road, only a short walk from the city center. Buses also leave regularly from Guayaquil, Bahia de Caraquez, Riobamba, Ambato, and Latacunga.Once in Baños de Agua Santa travelers can easily get around on foot or rent a bike in town.

Climate

Baños de Agua Santa has a sub-tropical climate year-round, although during the rainy season, from May through October, temperatures can be cooler, especially in the evenings. It is recommended that visitors bring some warm clothes and a raincoat.