Ecuador Travel

Ozogoche Lake

Overview

The Ozogoche Lakes are a collection of about forty-five lakes or lagoons within the Sangay National Park in the province of Chimborazo. Twenty kilometers south of Guamote and 36 kilometers east of the village of Palmira, these lakes are great example of Ecuador’s remote and vast natural beauty. The lakes sit at an altitude of about 3700 meters among the unique grassy highlands known as paramo and between the high peaks of Ecuador’s Southern Andes. The lakes are deep, cold, and have a striking dark blue hue. The unique natural habitat in and surrounding the Ozogoche Lakes makes it a great area for camping, hiking, fishing, birdwatching, and mountain biking. With Riobamba as a distant but logical hub along the way, the Ozogoche Lakes are one of Ecuador’s best locations for those looking to break free from the well-trodden path. A visit to these lakes is one-of-a-kind step into the natural world of the remote culture of the Andean highlands.

History

The history of the Ozogoche Lakes and the surrounding region is the history of the Quichua people. These indigenous natives call the Andean highlands home and have done so for more than 1000 years. Although the Quichua were one of the first groups to be conquered by the Inca Empire, their population did not decline until the drastic fall that was catalyzed by the Spanish colonization of Ecuador. Some Quichua escaped from central Ecuador and migrated south down the Andes mountain range, leading to the population of places like the Ozogoche Lakes. These indigenous cultures still play a huge role in the region today.

Attractions

The isolated and preserved Ozogoche Lakes, and the surrounding Sangay National Park, make for some of the most interesting hiking in Ecuador. In stark contrast to the vibrant vegetation in the Eastern rainforest or the dense tropics of the coast, the Chimborazo region features unique flora and fauna at a high altitude. By hiking around the Ozogoche Lakes and lagoons, travelers get a firm understanding of the ecosystem and the feel of the Andean highlands. Vegetation includes Andean flowers, peat moss, and woody shrubs of aster. The fauna is also impressive, as the lakes host species like the Spectacled bear as well as tapirs, jaguars, deer, and sheep. While some trails can be hiked alone, it is often recommended and sometimes required to hike with a guide. These can be found in any of the nearby villages.

What can be experienced by hiking in the Ozogoche Lake region is intensified by supreme mountain biking through the same terrain. The intense hills and well-defined paths make this a great activity in this portion of the Sangay National Park. Travelers either bring their own bike or rent one from the local agencies that are positioned throughout the area. Make sure to focus on the path and not get too distracted by the breathtaking views of the blue Ozogoche Lakes.

Travelers can also enjoy horseback riding around the Ozogoche Lakes. Horses and guides are provided by the local tourism infrastructure. Travelers can rest their weary legs while still enjoying the peaceful serenity of the Ozogoche Lakes.

The Ozogoche Lakes provide ample opportunity for camping. Travelers often rave about the views of the stars on a clear night, untainted by the light pollution of street lamps or buildings. Bring a tent and a warm sleeping bag and set up camp among the Ozogoche Lakes. There are designated camp sites within Sangay National Park, as well as basic tourism infrastructure should you decide to sleep under a roof.

The Ozogoche Lakes are also very well known for bird watching. Perhaps the most legendary aspect of the Ozogoche Lakes is that it features one of the world’s most perplexing natural phenomena. This refers to the migrating plovers (cuvivi in Quichua) that come to the lakes during September to kill themselves. Hundreds of these birds systematically plunge without warning into the icy waters of the Ozogoche Lakes. Scientists have not been able to explain the phenomenon but the locals pay tribute to the suicidal birds with a festival of traditional music and dancing.

Fishing is also a big attraction in the Ozogoche Lakes. Many of the lakes are filled with trout that can be caught and eaten for a deliciously fresh fish meal.

The Quichua culture also provides an insightful perspective on the Ozogoche Lakes. The best way to experience the way of life of this indigenous demographic is to visit nearby Guamote for the weekly indigenous market on Thursdays. These markets feature the sale of sheep, pigs, cattle, horses, llamas, handicrafts and clothing.

Getting to and away

Given that most of its charms come along with its remote location, the Ozogoche Lakes require a bit more effort to reach. The closest major city is Riobamba. From Riobamba, catch a Cuenca-bound bus that heads south on the Panamerican Highway. Ask the driver to let you off at the sign for the Ozogoche Lakes. This will come just past the stop for Guamote (43.5 kilometers) and will cost less than $1. From the sign for the Ozogoche Lakes, wait for a pickup truck service that does regular rides to the lakes. This takes between one and one and a half hours and costs between eight and eleven dollars.

In addition to bus, car rental is also a popular option with plenty of agencies located in Riobamba. Travelers can also reach the Ozogoche Lakes as a stop on tours through the Riobamba province, combining their stop at the lakes with further tours of the Andes highlands. Ask tour operators if they have trips to the Ozogoche Lakes.

When to go

Rainy season in this region runs from October to May while the dry season spans June to September. Weather is generally agreeable during the day at 20 degrees centigrade. Temperatures drop to around ten degrees centigrade at night. Some travelers plan their visit to the Ozogoche Lakes to coincide with the legendary Guamote indigenous market, which takes place every Thursday.