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Overview
El Angel Ecological Reserve is located in the province of Carchi, approximately 170 km north of Quito and situated on the border with Colombia. The reserve lies at 11950 - 15,640 feet above sea level and consists of 15,715 hectares of "paramo" -- a unique type of high altitude, humid moorland found in the Andes of northern Ecuador and southern Colombia. Temperatures in the region range between 41° to 64° F during the day. The rolling gray-green hills of the paramo rise high above the surrounding landscape, allowing for spectacular views of the patchwork quilt colors of the Andean highlands, and on a clear day, of the distant volcanic peaks. Watching the frequent mists roll in over into the moorlands is a truly amazing, almost otherworldly experience, as the open vista is rapidly swallowed up by a heavy, dark gray, vaporous blanket, and the temperature abruptly drops by several degrees. The landscape within the paramo is dotted by small waterfalls and clear and mineral-colored lagoons of varying sizes, many of which are home to the fresh water trout which were introduced a few decades ago.
What makes this ecosystem so unique and special is its function as a type of giant natural sponge, trapping moisture deposited by the regular rains and mists which release water over the region, and letting it out slowly into the surrounding foothills in the form of streams and small rivers, which eventually join to make up the basin of the Mira and El Angel rivers. Much of the water supply of northern Ecuador originates directly from the paramo of El Angel. It is a plant called the frailejon which is primarily responsible for the functioning of this ecosystem. The frailejon is a somewhat treelike shrub with broad, gray-white, hairy leaves and yellow flowers, which may reach a height of up to six feet over the course of its lifetime (sometimes over 100 years). It is these unusual plants which lend the paramo of El Angel its striking appearance and gray-green color. There are several other smaller species of pillow-like plants which serve as mini-sponges, with leaves adapted to the cold and to heavy rainfall. Animal life found in the region includes deer, rabbits, wolves, several species of mice, weasels, wild cats and Andean puma. Bird life includes the Andean condor, caracaras, gulls, ducks, doves, and quail.
The landscape within the paramo is dotted by small waterfalls and clear and mineral-colored lagoons of varying sizes...
Nestled in a glacial valley between the high, frailejon covered summits of the paramo is another unique ecosystem, this in the form of a millennial forest of polylepis trees. Polylepis are known locally as "arboles de papel" (paper trees) for their thin, reddish-brown, paper-like bark, which is shread constantly in order to prevent the adherence of parasitic species such as mosses and liquens. All manner of other species cohabit this fascinating ecosystem with the polylepis trees -- fungi, ferns, and epiphyte plants like bromeliads and orchids. The twisted, gnarled trunks of the polylepis -- some of which are over 1000 years old -- combined with the mists, moss, hanging orchid blossoms, and small lakes and streams, combine to give the polylepis forest an otherworldly, magical feel which is almost like stepping into a fairy tale. The forest is unique in the world due to its location and age, and having the chance to explore its mysteries is truly a once in a lifetime experience.
El Voladero lakes
Located over 3815 meters high is a complex of 3 lagoons and wide fields of frailejones. Access is by an auto-guided trail 2 km long, with some rest places and sightseeing points. If you want to see more untouched lakes the Potrerillos lake is 2 hours ahead hiking. Remember the weather is really cold so wear layers, a dry coat or jacket and hiking boots. If you plan to stay and camp it is strongly recommended to hire a tour operator because the reserve is far away from towns and it is not easy to get all the supplies for a successful camping trip.
El Salado
This is a nice location to see the rare Andean Condor, curiquingues and other birds. The sightseeing points of Socavones and Chiltazon are ideal places to see frailejones and pajonal fields around. Nearby, the Cañon of Colorado, red forest of Polylepis and other lagoons like the Crespo lake are all interesting spots and some have fishing and aquatic birds.Those wishing to visit El Angel Ecological Reserve and the polylepis forest are encouraged to stay at the Polylepis Lodge, a unique ecolodge located within the Reserve in the same valley which shelters the polylepis forest. The Ecolodge seeks to protect the fragile forest and paramo ecosystems of El Angel from incursions and the damage caused by cattle grazing and hunting activities, and educate people of all ages and nationalities about the importance of this special place. Internships are a possibility for those wishing to stay longer and learn more about the ecosystem. The lodge consists of a mix of 20 huts and cottages with private bathrooms, fireplaces, and in some cases, a jacuzzi. The lodge also has a central building which is home to a restaurant, bar, and a game room, along with a large roaring fireplace which serves as a cozy gathering spot following a long day spent trekking through the paramo. The delicious meals offered by the restaurant are principally traditional Ecuadorian fare and prominently feature the locally-fished trout. Prices for stays at the lodge include three meals, three walks with a knowledgeable native guide in the paramo and the polylepis forests, and firewood and hot water bottles to ward off the night-time chill in your cabin. Activities are tailored to the interests and physical abilities of each group, and one of the highlights is a nighttime walk in the forest, using only torches to light the way through the tangle of twisted trunks and hanging mosses.
How to get there
In order to reach the El Angel Ecological Reserve and the Ecolodge, take a bus north from Quito, passing through Ibarra and Tulcan and arriving to the small town of El Angel, just south of the Colombian border. From the central park of El Angel, a taxi or truck can be hired to take you the remaining 14km to the lodge entrance (around $10).
The best way is taking a truck ride from Bolivar city a few kilometres away from El Angel town. The road is in good shape to enable you to get into the reserve. The road goes 30 km from el Angel or Bolivar until a split in the road, where you can go to El Voladero on the right or El Salado on the left. Access to el Voladero is $2 for Ecuadorians and $10 for foreigners.
