Ecuador Travel

Iliniza Sur

Overview

The Illinizas are a pair of mountains that are located to the south of Quito. They are found in the ecological reserve that shares its name with the mountains. These twin mountains are separated in the middle by a saddle that is about a kilometer long. The peaks are among the highest in Ecuador, with Illiniza Sur standing slightly taller than its northern counterpart, at 5248 meters and 5126 meters respectively.

The first time that Illiniza Norte was climbed, this feat was achieved by an Ecuadorian, which was rather unusual, since of the ten peaks in the country above 5000 meters in height, all of the others were climbed first by outsiders. The peak was reached in 1912 by Nicolás Martinéz, and Alejandro Villavicencio.

The refuge is shared between the two mountains and sits below the saddle area. It is found at around 4650 meters above sea level. It is possible to hike up to the refuge. This is a steep hike and should not be attempted by those who are out of shape or not properly acclimatized. For those planning to summit Illiniza Sur, this is a good option for staying overnight as it has beds. Alternatively, those climbing either mountain can camp below close to the Virgen area where there are a few good spots. It gets chilly here at night (and sometimes during the day too) so hikers and campers should be well prepared.

The route up to the refuge takes in paramo grasslands, polylepis forest and then a steep, exposed slope. Beyond that, hikers can reach the top of Illiniza Norte. There is a little scrambling involved, and due to loose rocks it is better to wear a helmet. Illiniza Sur on the other hand, is a very technical climb and should not be attempted without all of the right equipment. It is highly recommended to go with a guide to do either peak. The hike up Illiniza Norte is usually started very early in the day, no later than 7 am, and it takes approximately five hours to reach the peak. The Illiniza Sur hike is usually begun at midnight, with climbers descending between 8 am and 10 am. Those who do not want to exert themselves climbing so high will enjoy hiking around below in the paramo and polylepis areas, where there is an abundance of flora and fauna to be observed.

Highlights

Hiking up Iliniza Norte – for serious hikers, the trip up Illiniza Norte is not to be missed. Most hikers start at the Virgen early in the morning (as early as 5 am) to begin the route to the top. The hike heads through páramo grasslands, then up through a short section of Polylepis forest before reaching the scree-like slopes. The hike is better done with a guide, and wearing a hard hat, due to the loose rock toward the top.

Climbing up Illiniza Sur – Illiniza Sur is one of Ecuador’s toughest mountains to climb. The peak is right next to, but just slightly south of Illiniza Norte. The climb should not be attempted by the novice climber, and it requires a glacier climb, ropes and other technical equipment. As with the Illiniza Norte hike, it usually starts from the Virgen, but unlike the Illiniza Norte hike, it usually starts at around midnight.

Hiking in the Illinizas reserve – Aside from attempting either of the steep mountain peaks, those who enjoy hiking in natural beauty will enjoy general hiking in the Illinizas reserve. Much of the hiking at the lower altitudes below the mountains takes place in the páramo grassland or through the Polylepis forest. For those who are feeling a little more active, it is possible to hike up to the refuge, which is a few hundred meters short of the top of the mountains.

Bird watching – the Illlinzas reserve, as a government-protected area is home to a wide variety of interesting Andean bird life, for travelers to see. There is a small possibility of observing a majestic Andean Condor or two, though these are very rare. However, the páramo landscape supports a broad range of other bird life for the keen bird watcher to spot—travelers should bring a bird identification book and binoculars.

Camping – close to the Virgen area of the Illinizas reserve, there are some designated spots that have been put by for camping. Waking up in this reserve with all its natural beauty is a sight to behold in the morning as the sun comes up. Visitors who want to camp here should remember that this is at high altitude and it gets rather cold at night. Travelers should be prepared with warm clothing.

Photography – the fairly elusive Illiniza peaks can be hard to photograph, since they are often in the clouds. However, when the clouds part, the sight of the twin peaks is spectacular, and worth the wait. Aside from the peaks, the beauty of the reserve lends itself perfectly to great photography.

Getting there

The ecological reserve is located approximately 40 kilometers south of Quito. To get there, travelers should first head to the Quitumbe bus terminal to the south of Quito. This is accessible either by taking a taxi directly to the terminal, a journey of half an hour at a cost of $10 or so, or alternatively taking the Trolebus to its final stop and alighting for the terminal. The cost of this route is $0.25. Allow an hour on the Trole.

On arrival at Quitumbe, the traveler should get on any bus heading south along the Pan-American Highway (to places such as Latacunga). These buses will be able to drop you by the turn off for El Chaupi. Beyond this, get on another bus to travel the seven kilometers to El Chaupi. To get to the ecological reserve from here, it will cost approximately $20 each way in a car, that you can arrange from El Chaupi.

The entrance fee to the ecological reserve is $5 for foreigners and $1 for those living in Ecuador.