Ecuador Travel

José Maria Asael cementery in Tulcáno

Overview

With about 53,000 residents and an altitude of 3000 meters above sea level, San Sebastian de Tulcán is the highest city in Ecuador and the capital of the Carchi province. Located in the northern end of the province of Carchi, Tulcán lies just a few kilometers from Ecuador’s border with Colombia. Not a typical tourist destination, Tulcán captures a lesser-known side of Ecuador. Though it may not have the tourism infrastructure of other locations, it is a unique city that appeals to those who wish to catch a glimpse of domestic Ecuadorian life. Proximity to Colombia adds another interesting dimension to Tulcán, as many residents work across the Rumicacha Bridge border but live in Ecuador. Add the famous Topiary Garden Cemetery into the mix along with the hot springs and a nearby volcano and you have special city among Ecuador’s Northern highlands.

History

Because natural disasters have erased many of Tulcán’s historical architecture, the most interesting aspect of Tulcán’s history today is the story of the Topiary Garden Cemetery. In 1936 Jose Franco created the Topiary Garden among an already existent cemetery. Although initially received as odd, the garden cemetery grew and prospered into a frequently visited and well-respected site. In 1984, the Ecuadorian Government acknowledged the garden’s beauty and designated the municipal cemetery as a National Patrimony. Creator Jose Franco himself is buried within his cemetery under the Sculpture of the Green Holy Field. Franco left a written ode that reads, "In Tulcán, a cemetery so beautiful that it invites one to die." His five sons continue the maintenance of the Topiary Garden Cemetery and the creation of its fascinating shrubbery to this day.

Attractions

Of course the main attraction in Tulcán is the Topiary Garden Cemetery. The cemetery is located just two blocks from Parque Arroya and features different types of trees in a variety of exotic shapes. Whether the trees form animals, archways, angels, geometric shapes, or Incan symbols, the garden cemetery does not fail to impress. Seeing as it is a modern, functioning cemetery, the garden cemetery is free to the public but remember to be respectful of the mourners. While Jose Franco claimed that the cemetery “invites one to die,” one can be sure that it invites travelers to visit.

Located just two blocks from the cemetery, the Museo Casa de la Cultura is Tulcán’s best museum. On the corner of Cotopaxi and Panama, the Museo Casa de la Cultura has an archaeology hall, a gallery of sculptures and paintings, and a heritage all that displays the idiosyncrasies of Carchi culture. This is a great place to see the documented history and culture of Tulcán and the surrounding area. The Museo Casa de la Cultura is open on Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 4pm. On Saturdays, it is open from 9am to 1pm. Admission is just one dollar.

Tulcán also offers attractions outside of the cemetery. Just four kilometers from the bus terminal is Volcán Chiles, an extinct volcano whose summit is 4760 meters above sea level. The Chiles Volcano can be climbed in six hours and requires a local guide to help you reach the top and return safely. The climb is very tiring but hikers are rewarded with a unique opportunity to enjoy the Frailejones vegetation and other distinct plant life. The Frailejones vegetation is only found in the high paramo of the Andes, with stems of up to twenty feet, flowers like sunflowers, and hairy leaves to protect the plant from the cold climate. Other unique flora include polyepsis trees which have many paper-like layers of bark and El Angel flowers whose white leaves and bright yellow flowers give off a holy aura. The summit of Volcán Chiles affords great views of both Ecuador and Colombia, making it a perfect final hike before venturing across the border.

Volcán Chiles is also significant because it heats the nearby thermal hot springs, another Tulcán attraction. Aguas Hediondas are perhaps the most popular of Tulcán’s hot springs, set among the rolling hills of the city’s surrounding countryside. The minerals in the waters of Aguas Hediondas are said to cure many ailments and rheumatic disorders. Visitors can relax in the hot water and look up at the towering volcano and surrounding mountains. This nearby attraction fills up quickly on weekends, however, so try to come in the week to get the best experience.

Within the city of Tulcán, there is also a decent Sunday market. This market has interesting and affordable goods and clothing as well as food. This market is located in the town center between Bolivar and Sucre streets. A smaller market takes place on Tuesday.

Getting to and away from Tulcan

By bus, Tulcán is about five hours from Quito ($4-5), two and a half hours from Ibarra ($2-3), two hours from Mira ($1-2), and fourteen hours from Guayaquil ($12-14). Among the bus services used are San Cristobal (257-0524), Expreso Turismo (298-0831), Flota Imbabura (298-6831), and Panamericana (298-0339).

If traveling by air, TAME offers Tulcán flights to and from Quito for approximately $100. The Tulcán airport is located on the southeastern edge of the town. Taxis should cost about one dollar from the airport in to the center of town.

When to go

The weather in Tulcán stays relatively consistent throughout the year. Due to the high altitude, Tulcán is generally chilly all year round with frequent misty rain. To experience Tulcán’s festivals, come in the spring for Fiesta de Tulcán (April 11th) or in the fall for Carchi Provincial Holiday (November 19th). Tulcán has an open street market on Tuesdays and Sundays. The weekdays are much better for visiting the hot springs than the weekends, when crowds arrive in droves.