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Bahía de Caraquez is perhaps the most beautiful city on the Ecuadorian coast. Located on a narrow peninsula with a chain of tall hills at its base, the setting for Bahía (as it is usually called) could not be more spectacular. With the pounding waves of the Pacific on one side, and the tranquil Río Chone and its estuary on two other sides, Bahía has long lured visitors eager to be near the water.
The northern region of Manabí, where Bahía de Caraquez is located, was a favored spot for pre-Columbian civilizations. The Jama-Coaque, Manta and Bahía peoples made this stretch of coastline their home. The first Europeans to take an interest in the peninsula were pirates in search of safe-harbor, which was provided by the peninsula's breakwater.
Bahía was later Ecuador's first major port. It was from the docks of Bahía that Ecuador's early exports- fruits, vegetables, tagua, straw hats- passed to the rest of the world. The silting and erosion of the river banks along the Chone, however, forced the port to be shut down, with its business going to Guayaquil, Manta and Esmeraldas. Bahía became a sleepy resort for quiteños, as well as a home for fishermen and an urban center for the surrounding farms and ranches.
In 1998, the city was devastated by two natural disasters. Landslides caused by the intense El Niño storms of that year damaged many homes. Shortly thereafter, a major earthquake struck, damaging more of the city's homes and businesses. More than simply rebuild, however, the community decided to reinvent itself, and in 1998 Bahía was proclaimed one of the world's first eco-cities. With a focus on sustainable development and tourism, recycling and reforestation, the city has won plaudits from around the world.
Bahía de Caraquez is perhaps the most beautiful city on the Ecuadorian coast...
Bahía de Caraquez Attractions
• The Malecón
The heart and soul of Bahía, the Malecón wraps 270 degrees around the city, from the ferry dock, along the Río Chone, to the Pacific side and down to the hills at the end of town. The character of the Malecón changes in its different locations. Around the ferry dock, it houses simple restaurants and handicraft stalls. Near the tip of the peninsula, the Malecón runs in the shadows of smart, new condominium buildings. There is a little, sand beach hear, which is mostly sheltered from the Pacific's waves and is appropriate for children. On the Pacific side, the Pacific's crashing surf attracts surfers, who congregate near a rocky point. The whole Malecón can be covered by walkers, bikers and rollerbladers.
• Isla Corazón
A heart-shaped island (hence its name) located a few kilometers upstream in the Río Chone from Bahía, Isla Corazón is a must-see for birdwatchers. The mangroves of the island are a prime breeding ground for seabirds, and the population of frigate birds is especially large. Isla Corazón is part of an eco-tourism project, in which local fishermen have nurtured the mangroves and expanded the island. Now protected by the government, the island can be visited on a guided tour led by the fishermen. Tours depart from Bahía's municipal dock or from Puerto Portovelo, near San Vicente.
• Chirije
15 kilometers (10 miles) south of Bahía, Chirije is one of the most important archeological sites on the Ecuadorian coast. Although few building ruins remain, the amount of pottery, jewelry and other artifacts recovered at the site suggest that it was a major port and settlement. It is believed to have been inhabited by a succession of cultures, over 2000 years, from 500 B.C. to 1500 A.D. The site today has a museum housing some of the archeological finds. The site is located amid one of the largest tracts of tropical dry forest left here. There is also a nice beach near the archeological remains. Today Chirije is privately held, but it can be visited on an overnight visit or day trip from Bahia. Visit www.chirije.com for information about visiting.
• Museo Bahía de Caraquez
If you want a break from the sun, head to Bahía de Caraquez's archeological museum. Professional, well-curated and still quite new (having opened its doors in 2004), the museum presents artifacts from this historically-rich region. The focus is on pottery, with many examples from the Valdivia, Bahia, Jama-Coaque and Manteña cultures. One particularly fine example of workmanship are the carved Manteño stools. There are also exhibits describing pre-Columbian seafaring.
• San Vicente and Briceño
Bahía does not have a proper beach itself, but don't fret; there are plenty nearby. One of the nicest and closest is located in Briceño. To get there, you will have to cross the Río Chone. If you are driving, there is a car ferry every half hour to San Vicente, from where it is a 10 minute drive to Briceño. Using public transportation, you can take a small boat across the river ($0.30, every 5 minutes during daylight hours), and then hop on a bus for the 15 minute drive. Once you arrive, you will find few amenities and even fewer beachgoers, but you will find plenty of open sand and pounding surf.
• The local cuisine
Manabí cuisine is famous throughout the country- even in Quito and Guayaquil, you will find restaurants serving this local fare. Bahía is one of the best places to try it, as there are a number of excellent and moderately-priced restaurants ringing the Malecón. Be sure to try a ceviche, a lime-flavored seafood soup, and the viche, made with fish and peanuts. Bahía is also a good place to order a steak, as many of Ecuador's cattle ranches are located just a few miles inland.
When to visit Bahía
The weather is best between January and April, when there is more sun and warmer temperatures. If you want to see the humpback whales that pass by offshore, however, you should visit between late June and August.
How to Get to Bahía
Bahía's bus station is located in the south of the city. There are bus connections to Quito and Guayaquil on Reina del Camino. Buses to the northern Manabí and Esmeraldas coasts leave from San Vicente, across the river. If you are driving, there is a good road south to Manta and Guayaquil. If you are driving to Quito, you will have to go through Portoviejo or Chone, or ferry across the river and drive through Pedernales and Santo Domingo.
Bahía Budget
Bahía is slightly pricier than some coastal towns, but delivers good value for the money. With activities, accommodation and food factored in, visitors can expect to spend $25-$100 per night.
