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Canoa, population around 6,000, is a small, laidback beach village in Manabi province, known for it broad stretch of beach and great surfing. The town is framed by green-topped cliffs to the north and a long horizon to the south. Although Canoa is growing in popularity among surfers, beachgoers, and backpackers, and development along the beach between the town and San Vicente (18 kilometers / 11 miles to the south) is increasing, Canoa remains a quiet, sunny spot on the coast.
Dirt roads run off the main street (Calle Principal), and they feature a few hostels, restaurants and surf shops. The beachfront road is lined with accommodations with rooms with beach views, and there are several bars and restaurants serving everything from fresh seafood to fast food. Across the street, thatched roof huts line the beach, serving batidos (milkshakes), juices, cocktails and snacks. Further back from the beach, there is Brazilian-style churrasqueria and another location that serves food from the Basque region of Spain.
Canoa also has many budget guesthouses strung along the beachfront and scattered throughout town. The town doesn't have many services; you must go to San Vicente if you want to use an ATM, and there is no medical center in Canoa, only medicines available from shops. Most shops also have public phones, and there is one Internet cafe in town, though a couple bar-restaurants have WiFi.
Canoa has activities for the adventurous and the easygoing. Learn to surf, go horseback riding, take to the skies in a hang glider, and visit a bat-filled cave; or relax on the beach or in a hammock, learn Spanish or volunteer at an organic farm outside of town. Hostels and bars organize trips around the area, including kayaking, rafting and fishing excursions. You can also rent bicycles and motorbikes from some shops; just ask around. On Saturdays there's an organic products market on the main road.
Canoa has activities for the adventurous and the easygoing...
In 1997-1998, the effects of El Niño widened Canoa's beach, a long swath of near-white sand. Canoa's beach is an excellent surfing spot for surfers of all levels, particularly beginners. The beach is a fairly exposed break with consistent right- and left-breaking waves. During the week, the beach is empty, and on weekends there are usually only a few surfers in the water. Summer (December-May) is the best time of year to surf in Canoa. In high season (December-February) there are often international surf competitions. You can rent surfboards, body boards and boogie boards from hostels and surf shops, which also arrange surf lessons.
Hang gliding and Paragliding in Canoa beach in Manabi Ecuador
Canoa is a good place to try hang gliding and paragliding. Set off from the inland cliffs and soar over the beach. A tandem flight costs around $30 for around 20 minutes of airtime. At the north end of the beach there is a cave that you can visit at low tide. The cave is home to roosting bats and, occasionally, blue-footed boobies. According to legend, there is a large emerald in the cave that once belonged to the queen of the Cara tribe.
Organic farms near Canoa
Organic farm Rio Muchacho lies on a river, eight kilometers (5 miles) inland from Canoa. The farm educates children about waste management and reforestation, in addition to operating as a primary school. You can visit or even volunteer and learn about sustainable farming practices, see the crops, learn about permaculture and organic farming, do farm chores, fish for river shrimp or make crafts from tagua nuts. The organization that runs the farm also offers guided hikes, horseback riding and bird watching trips, as well as accommodation in cabins.
Jama Coaque tropical rainforest reserve
The Jama-Coaque Tropical Rainforest Reserve is another worthwhile destination near Canoa. A little over an hour away, north of town, the reserve is operated by an organization dedicated to forest conservation and permaculture. It is possible to visit the reserve to observe the organization's efforts. It is also possible to volunteer with reforestation work and live on the reserve with a group of international volunteers.
Canoa also has a fairly active nightlife. The huts along the beach serve drinks well into the night, and there are several clubs on the main street. A few foreign-owned restaurants double as bars as well. Nearby Bahia de Caraquez, a picturesque town built on a peninsula, is also worth a visit. Spend some time browsing the market in San Vicente on your way to the foot passenger ferry that runs to Bahia.
How to get there
Buses run between Pedernales and San Vicente, towns to the north and south of Canoa, every half-hour ($0.50). Buses stop on Canoa's main road. Buses from Quito travel direct to Canoa, and to Bahía de Caráquez and San Vicente. From Bahia, you can take a 10-minute ferry ($0.30) to San Vicente. From there, Canoa is a 20-minute bus ride away. Buses leave every half-hour, and you can also take a taxi ($5) or chiva ($0.30).
Buses from Quito leave for Canoa around midnight (6-7 hours, approximately $9) from the Quitumbe bus terminal. Buses bound for San Vicente and Bahia de Caraquez are slighly less expensive (around $8), but take an hour longer to reach their destination. Buses from Guayaquil to Canoa take six hours ($5) and depart from the Jaime Roldos Aguilera bus terminal. Ejecutivo buses running on these routes are a dollar or two more expensive, but are cleaner and have air conditioning. You can also fly to Manta's Eloy Alfaro Airport (MEC), and then take a bus to Bahia (3 hours, $3). Tame (www.tame.com.ec), Aerogal (www.aerogal.com.ec) and Icaro (www.icaro.aero) fly daily to Manta from Quito for around $100 return (45 minutes).
Travel Seasons of Canoa in Manabi Ecuador
The best time to visit Canoa is during high season (December-May), when the surfing is best and the weather is hotter and drier. During the high season, waves hit two meters (3 feet) and higher, the swimming is better, and Canoa often fills up with Ecuadorian families and foreigners during holidays such as Carnaval. The weather in Canoa is generally warm and humid, particularly from December to May. Although the rest of the year is dry and slightly cooler, there is often very little rainfall, which usually occurs in the evenings and overnight.
