Ecuador Travel

Mompiche Beach in Esmeraldas

Mompiche Beach in Esmeraldas

• Prev
• 1 of 2
• Next

Overview

Long a sleepy fishing village, Mompiche in Esmeraldas province, Ecuador has finally emerged on the tourist map. With a thick layer of rain forest protecting it from the highway, Mompiche's long, dark beach and superlative surfing breaks were hidden from tourists. No longer. While Mompiche is still low-key and undeveloped compared to the large resorts near Atacames, or others in Manabí, Santa Elena and Guayas provinces, its tourist infrastructure is growing. The town is expanding from its original clientele of backpackers and surfers, and it can now cater to even the most demanding of luxury travelers.

The area around what is now Mompiche was inhabited by a succession of indigenous groups, the most recent of which were the Chachi people. As was the case throughout Esmeraldas province, Afro-Ecuadorian populations moved into the region after winning their freedom from slavery.

During the 1990s, a few enterprising surfers noticed the long, consistent breaks off the seven kilometers (4 miles) of beaches at Mompiche. Within a few years, Mompiche had become part of the Ecuadorian surfing circuit, alongside such famed sites as Montañita and Canoa. As facilities improved, more backpackers and domestic tourists arrived at Mompiche, lured by its serenity, impressive beach and easy access from Quito and Guayaquil.

Mompiche Attractions

• Surfing

Mompiche has long breaks, both left- and right-handed along nearly a kilometer of coastline. The period from June through October offers the most consistency in wind and ground swells. The average height is 3 feet year-round, but it is not uncommon to find swells of 6 feet or more. There are a number of places along the beach to rent surfboards, usually from $8-15 per day. If you are a novice, there are a number of sites on the beach that would be appropriate for surfing, and many of the hostels offer surfing lessons.

• Boat Tours

Visitors arriving in Mompiche are sure to be met by boat captains at the end of Mompiche's main street, offering numerous tours. Common tours include trips to Isla Portete as well as to mangrove islands further away. These islands are excellent spots to give bird-watching a shot, as they attract numerous seabirds. A special treat which is occasionally offered is the opportunity to spot, or even swim with, the dolphins that inhabit the warm ocean waters. The cost for a tour should be about $5-10 per person, per hour, though this depends on the exact itinerary and the number of people on the boat.

• Playa Negra

If you follow the track south of Mompiche, you will come to Playa Negra. Most days, you will find its rich black sands absolutely untrammeled and secluded. This is a great beach on which to relax, but be sure to bring all the water, food and sunblock you will need, as there are no stores or stalls anywhere on the beach.

• Portete Island

Portete was long a secret kept among the savviest of travelers. Many people passed through Mompiche without ever hearing about the small island. The secret is out, now. The island, accessible only by boat, is one of the best surf spots in Ecuador. Its breaks are consistent and frequently the swells are higher than those at Mompiche. Despite its ever-growing fame among s urfers, the island remains peaceful and tranquil; even on holiday weekends when Mompiche fills up, you will find plenty of fine, white sand on which to spread out. To reach Portete, follow the road south from Mompiche, passing Playa Negra. After an hour of walking, or 15 minutes in a vehicle, you will reach the end of the road. Portete Island is separated from the mainland by a swift moving channel, so rather than swimming across, it is recommended that you take a canoe ride ($0.50). There are no services available on the island. A luxurious new Decameron resort has been built on the headland facing the main beach.

• Seafood

As a working fishing town, Mompiche is one of the best places to try the unique coastal fare of Esmeraldas province. The bass, grouper, shrimp, prawns, lobster and crab all come fresh from the waters off the resort. One standout dish to try is the encocado, in which seafood is cooked in a creamy sauce of coconut and garlic.

• Adventure sports

Surfing is not the only sport that can be attempted at Mompiche. The jungle tracks inland from town make for excellent mountain biking, especially during the dry season from July to November. The area around Mompiche has become a haven for sea kayaking, as well. Outings can be arranged at many hostels in town.

How to Get to Mompiche

Mompiche, while located off the main coastal road, is not especially difficult to reach. Air and ground transportation can take you to Esmeraldas, where you can catch a connection to Atacames. Additionally, if you are traveling from Quito, there are buses to Atacames. From there, several buses depart each day down the coastal road. Past Muisne, there is a well-marked turn-off that goes through the jungle for about 10 minutes before reaching Mompiche. The trip from Atacames takes about an hour. Additionally, this trip can be done in a private car, or by hiring a cab in Atacames ($20-35).

Best Times to Visit Mompiche

Depending on the activities that you want to engage in, there really is no bad time to visit Mompiche. The surfing is best from June through October, when the weather tends to be a bit cloudier and cooler. This is also the best time for hiking and mountain biking. Sun worshippers, meanwhile, will want to visit during the January-April high season, when the weather is sunnier. Prices tend to rise during this time, and booking ahead is recommended.

Budgets for Mompiche

Mompiche can accommodate visitors on nearly any budget. Guests at the luxurious Decameron resort will likely spend upwards of $200 per day, while backpackers can easily live on a budget of $30 per day by staying at a simple hostel and eating at local restaurants.