Ecuador Travel

Tour through the  Magroves of Muisne, Esmeraldas

The quiet, lesser traveled island of Muisne is located at the southern end of the province of Esmeraldas. The 2km island, separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, is a less popular tourist destination than the flashier, noisier beaches of Atacames and Tonsupa to the north, but it offers vistors willing to go a bit off the beaten path an unexpected reward: a long stretch of tranquil, sandy, palm-lined beaches, delicious food, friendly people, and a complete escape from the hustle and bustle of modern living. With no cars or buses circulating on the island – the only means of transport is via Ecotaxi and bicycle – even the customary clamor of vehicle traffic is silenced. The main settlement on the island is the town of Muisne, from which locals will happily peddle visitors to any of the ocean front hotels on the island where they are guaranteed to be greeted by a warm welcome, typical island hospitality, and a beckoning hammock from which to enjoy the sunset.

The locals in Muisne make a simple living from shrimp fishing, banana farming, and small-scale tourism. Many of the wooden houses constructed on the island are built on stilts to keep them above the water which fills the canals running through the islands at high tide.

Muisne has a number of excellent restaurants featuring local esmeraldeña specialties. The island is particularly well-known for its delicious encocados: a dish with shrimp or fish simmered in a seasoned coconut-based sauce and served with rice and the typical pressed and fried plaintain patacones. A recommended favorite spot with both islanders and tourists is the restaurant known as "Las Palmeras". For those looking for good company, exotic cocktails, marimba rhythms, and dancing, head to the Cuzumbo bar, a favorite local gathering spot offering all of the above.

Visitors to the island will find that strolls on the beach and relaxing in a hammock, interspersed with delicious meals, form the primary activities during their stay. There are however several other interesting options available, notably the various tours offered by the Fundecol (248-0519, www.fundecol.org) the Foundation for Ecological Defense, whose offices are located 3 blocks from the central park in Muisne. The options include visits by boat to the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Ecosistema del Manglar del Estuario del Rio Muisne and the Reserva Ecologica Mache Chindul, both outposts of some of the remaining pristine stretches of mangrove forests to be found in the area. Tours include explanations of the fragile and unique ecosystem and of the detrimental impacts caused by commercial shrimping. Costs of a tour range from $25 to $50 per person per day.

Another option is the Jatun Sacha Congal Biostation, a 250-hectare marine reserve located 2km from Muisne. The station was established to develop alternative, sustainable, and environmentally friendly organic aquaculture, natural resources management, and community extension programs. All of the projects developed and tested at the station are meant for real-world application on the farms of community members, with the goal being the empowerment of locals to evaluate community participation and propose their own projects for improvement of living standards. Volunteers are especially needed, but visitors passing through for a day or two are also welcome. There are great opportunities for snorkeling and scuba diving in the area, and the station offers comfortable private cabins and delicious meals, all prepared with local, sustainably caught seafood and the station’s own organic produce (www.jatunsacha.org, 022432240, $40 pp with 3 meals, discounts for groups and students).

Other nearby options include the towns of San Francisco de Cabo, Tola, and Pedro Carlo, and Daule, a small fishing and conch collecting village located one hour south on Muisne along the Ruta del Spopndylus. A visit to this village provides to opportunity to enjoy deserted beaches and to observe and accompany locals in their day to day activities of fishing (men) and conch-collecting (women). The only accommodations available are with local families, which provides visitors who chose to spend a night or two in Daule with a truly unique and enriching cultural immersion experience.

There are a number of hotel, hostel, and private cabin options available on Muisne. While not boasting resort-style luxury, the lodgings are on the whole clean, well-kept, comfortable and inexpensive.

In order to reach the Island of Muisne, take a bus south from the city of Esmeraldas (about 2 hours, $2.00) to the cement launch of El Relleno, where you can catch a motorized canoe across the Rio Muisne to the island ($0.20). Transport from Quito to Esmeraldas, a trip of around 6 hours, is provided by the cooperative TransEsmeraldas (Santa María 870 and 9 de Octubre, http://www.transesmeraldas.com/).