Ecuador Travel

Chordeleg handicrafts

Overview

Chordeleg is a small town about an hour east of the UNESCO World Heritage site, Cuenca, and famous for its fine filigree jewelry. In the 20 or so small shops lining the main plaza and surrounding area in town, shoppers can find filigree necklaces, bracelets, and earrings made of gold or silver and of excellent quality. Designs range from the contemporary and bold, to the traditional and subtle.

Prices are much lower than comparable pieces in the United States and Europe, making Chordeleg a real bargain for savvy shoppers. Forgery, however, is a concern and it’s best to know your metals well before making an expensive purchase. It’s not unusual for shopkeepers to weigh the pieces and quote a price based on the weight. Bartering is expected, and if you buy multiple pieces from one store, it’s easier to get a better price.

Chordeleg has been a jewelry making center since before the Inca, and industrious locals also make a variety of other crafts like panama hats, textiles, pottery, baskets, mats, musical instruments, and woodcarvings. In the main plaza there is a small, free museum which explains the history of the handicrafts and the techniques used.

One operation worthy of support is Chordeleg Agricultural Craft Centre (CACH). CACH is an association that organizes weavers of the famous Panama Hats or “sombreros de paja toquilla.” Today the organization has 54 members and owns and operates a hat store in Chordeleg, as well as a straw-processing company. The goal is to provide high-quality hats in exchange for fair wages. Each year since 2002 they have provided Spanish company Oxfam with close to 1,000 hats and managed to pay their members almost three times the usual rate per hat.

Many travelers choose to combine a visit to Chordeleg with visits to one, or a few, of the nearby towns of Gualaceo, Sigsig, and Principal for a full day trip from Cuenca. Sundays are one of the most popular days to visit these towns because most things in Cuenca are closed, and many of these towns host lively Sunday markets. Keep in mind however that many of the stores in these towns will be closed on Sundays as well.

Gualaceo is perhaps the most popular destination to visit in conjunction with Chordeleg, as it’s on the way to Chordeleg, and has the largest Sunday market in the area. On Sundays, travelers can find a large food market in the main plaza and sample traditional cuisine like locally grown fruits and vegetables, smoked pork, medicinal herbs, and natural remedies. The town also has an interesting animal market on Sunday mornings a few blocks away and across the river where little piglets and guinea pigs are bought and sold. The tranquil river banks make a great lunch spot as the banks are flanked with green lawns ideal for picnics.

Gualaceo is about an hour by bus from Cuenca and costs under $1. To get to Chordeleg, just 10km south of Gualaceo, travelers can catch a bus from the terminal in Gualaceo or catch a taxi for under $5.

In Gualaceo and Sigsig, shoppers are often searching for both the famous ikat weavings, a pre-Columbian technique of producing textiles by weaving tie-dyed threads, and paños, macramé fringed cotton shawls traditionally dyed indigo. Shoppers can also find panama hats, musical instruments, and a variety of crafts.

Sigsig is 26km south of Gualaceo and is also known for its panama hats in addition to its textiles. There is a woman’s hat-making cooperative called Asociación de Toquilleras Maria Auxiliadora on the outskirts of the village where hat connoisseurs can find high quality items for less than they can be found in Cuenca. Sigsig can be reached by bus from Chordeleg’s main plaza. Buses run every half hour and cost under $1. Buses to Cuenca also leave around every half hour from the bus terminal.

For those who tire of shopping and prefer to explore the flora and fauna of this region, Principal is an attractive destination. The small town is nestled into a lush valley dominated by Volcan Fasayñan and offers a variety of outdoor activities and hikes ranging in difficulty level. There is a small association of guides that can lead groups or individuals for around $10 per person to Iniernillo (little hell) waterfall up the flanks of Volcan Fasayñan and to Three Lakes, three small lakes situated near one another with sparkling crystal water. The guides charge around $10 per person for the trip and the hike takes between 4 and 5 hours.

Horseback riding, bird-watching tours, and a tour of a local weaving cooperative can also be arranged from nearby Hostal Anabel. For visitors who have more time, the difficult 2 day hike up the volcano will keep even the most active hikers busy and those wishing to fish or relax at the lakes can arrange an overnight camping trip, although you will need your own camping gear and a reliable guide. To get to Principal, take a bus to Chordeleg from Cuenca, and then to Principal from Chordeleg. The trip takes about two hours.