Ecuador Travel

Saraguro Holidays

Overview

Way up in Ecuador’s Southern Andes between Cuenca and Loja lies the small town of Saraguro. Here live the unique Saraguro people, an indigenous culture known for their well-preserved way of life, their traditional clothing and crafts, their Quichua language, and their gastronomy. The Saraguro people proudly maintain the cultural staples that have structured their life for hundreds of years. They have worked to preserve their indigenous identity since the Spanish conquest and continue to do so through the modernization and globalization of today. Travelers come from all over the world to experience the proud Saraguro community in their native town. In addition to the rich and vibrant culture, Saraguro also has great natural beauty, flora and fauna, and opportunities for plenty of adventure activities. Almost all tourism infrastructure is local, making for an authentic and sustainable travel experience.

History

With just under 30,000 Saraguros in South America, this significant indigenous group is said to have descended from mitimaes (people transferred by the Inca Empire in around 1470) from modern day southern Peru and Bolivia. Studies also show that portions of the Saraguro population have roots in the Canari people. While the Saraguro people live in many different areas of the Southern Andes, Saraguro itself is the cultural and political hub for the indigenous people. After moving into the area several hundred years ago, the Saraguros established a self-sufficient, agro-pastoral lifestyle. All of their food came from crops they had grown and they wore only clothing from their sheep’s wool. They also raised cattle, chicken, and guinea pigs and some sold textiles or crafts they made.

The Saraguro people fought fiercely with the Spanish conquistadors over land disputes during colonial times. When the first paved road reached their land in 1940, conflicts again emerged as the Saraguros had to cope with the influx of non-indigenous peoples. These types of changes continued throughout the 20th century. Although many Saraguro are now doctors, lawyers, automobile mechanics, or elected officials, they still maintain the staples of their civilization including traditional dress, Quichua language, and local sustainability.

Attractions

The number one attraction in Saraguro is the observation and immersion in Saraguro community and culture. This is truly a one-of-a-kind environment where a people have so strongly maintained their identity as a collective. To experience this culture, travelers can take tours with local guides of weaving workshops, where typical Saraguro clothing is made. For women, the clothing consists of a black, outer-skirt covering a colorful embroidered skirt. This is layered over with a black shawl closed by a detailed metal pin. The women also wear woven belts of many colors and large beaded necklaces. Men wear black pants down to their calves and ponchos. The unifying piece of clothing for both men and women is the wide, flat brimmed hat. These hats are white and made of felt. Both men and women wear their hair in a long singular braid.

Travelers can also tour the workshops where the Saraguro people produce their legendary jewelry.

These cultural tours also take their guests to medicinal plant gardens, where the guide explains how the plants are grown, harvested, and applied. These plants are known to cure all sorts of ailments. Guides also take travelers hiking to waterfalls that are deemed sacred by the Saraguro people. These hikes take only about an hour and are a great way to combine cultural observation with natural beauty.

Longer trips outside of town can be arranged to visit the Condroshillu Lakes. These tours can also take you to the nearby Saraguro communities outside of town in Las Lagunas, Ilincho, and Gunudel-Gulacpamba. These areas lie south of Saraguro in well-preserved cloud forest. The area was recently established as a nature preserve, the Huashapamba Natural Forest.

Travelers can also experience the local Saraguro community by participating in mingas, or collective work days in the community. Build good relations with the locals by working side by side with them and learning their methods and beliefs. It is also possible to immerse yourself by staying overnight in an arranged homestay with a local family. These can be coordinated through the tourism website, www.turismosaraguro.com.

Another big attraction in Saraguro is the local gastronomy. Saraguro has plenty of authentic restaurants given its small size. These restaurants offer traditional cuisine made from local cattle and agriculture. Try the cuy or guinea pig. The best restaurants are right in the main square where travelers settle down to eat well and observe the bustle of Saraguro’s town center.

The Saraguro Sunday market is another great way to observe the workings of the Saraguro culture. The Saraguro people don their finest attire for this clothing, craft, and food market. Come to shop or simply to observe this weekly economic and cultural ritual.

In addition to all of the cultural attractions in Saraguro, there is also ample opportunity for camping, hiking, mountain biking and rock climbing. Maps, equipment, and guides can all be found in town through local agencies. All proceeds, including hotel takings, go right back into the Saraguro community. This helps the culture maintain its lifestyle and its individuality.

Getting to and away

It is easiest to catch a bus from Cuenca to Loja and get off in Saraguro. This should take about 3 and a half hours and cost between 4 and 6 dollars. This bus drops travelers off just one block from the main square. Buses leave from Saraguro to Loja and Cuenca on the hour. Buses can be caught from Loja or Cuenca to most major cities and destinations in Ecuador. Tickets out of Saraguro can be bought at the bus office one block from the town center.

When to go

Although Saraguro and the surrounding area is chilly year round, the wet season from June to August is especially cold. Sundays are of particular interest for the colorful indigenous market.